Bangli Regency
An atmosphere of dawn of the world. At times, a sea of rolling clouds pierced by the proud shape of rotund volcanoes. At others, the dark and reddish light of a lunar mountain resting next to the glittering water of a volcanic lake. The Batur caldera: Ball’s most sensational landscape.
The regency of Bangli covers two distinct geographical areas: the volcanic uplands of the Batur and Kintamani area, stretching down almost to the sea near Tianyar and Tejakula; and the upper part of the rice growing area of Southern Bali, overlooking Gianyar and Klungkung. These borders reflect Bangli’s strong position with regard to these rivals when it allied itself with the Dutch following the 1846- 1849 Buleleng war. Bangli had control over the mountain lakes and sources, and hence over the irrigation system.
The physical and human features of “Southern” Bangli are not different from that of the neighboring areas of Gianyar and Klungkung: tightly knit villages scattered in a landscape of rice field terraces, lush gorges and forest; it was the realm of the Javanized courts. The mountain area is strikingly different: There nature has always shown its power and even violence, keeping the local villages aloof from the influence of the courts; it is tile place par excellence of the Bali Aga “aborigine” communities.
The South
One usually enters the territory of Bangli through Gianyar, either via Tampak siring or via the main road branching to Bangli east of the city of Gianyar. The discovery of Bangli begins right away with the rice terraces of Sidan, just at the onset of the climb, with a beautiful view over Bukit Samprangan, where the Javanese Majapahit warriors first established their kingdom in 1343. The road then climbs to Bangli through Taman Bali. Another road passes through the villages of Beng, Apuan, and Demulih, ending up in Bangli too.
This Southern rice growing area, although it has no “tourist attractions” in the strict sense of the word, is one of the most enticing of the island, especially if one walks off the main roads to the discovery of village lanes and rice fields. The magical charm of Bali is all there: clutter of shrines in the midst of rice fields, alignment of brick gates in the village streets and the looming presence of the tall pule and giant banyan tree.
Bangli is a sleepy administrative center, with the usual cluster of princely and Brahmins’ palaces and mansions, best seen at times of ceremonies. The Puri Denpasar may be visited, as part of it has been transformed into a small hotel. But the most interesting monument in Bangli, and indeed in Bali, is the Pura Kehen temple, just to the north of Bangli town. The state temple of the kingdom of Bangli, Pura Kehen occupies the site of an older temple dating back to the 9th century. The temple owes much of its appeal to its atmosphere. It is set majestically on a number of levels against the background of a hill forest, and large trees that shade the shrines and gates of its court yards.
A flight of 38 stairs leads to the meru-shaped gate between two rows of wayang statues depicting the main characters of the puppet show theater. The gate is surrounded by a frightening Kala head, the guardian of the nether world. The temple has a magnificent 11-roofed shrine dedicated to the god of fire, the residing god of the temple.
Two kilometers from Pura Kehen is the small village of Penglipuran, which has been restored by the local government as a typical Balinese village.
From the town of Bangli, it’s a beautiful drive eastward to Karangasern and the Besakih mother temple through an endless succession of gorges and rice terraces. But the main road heads northward to the Batur Kintamani area, where the most spectacular panorama of the island is waiting the tourist. The North. Bangli mountain area centers around the spectacular caldera of Mount Batur. Mount Batur itself is but a small volcano set just in the middle of a huge, 14 km wide crater next to a crescent-shaped lake of the same name, and surrounded by the tall walls of the caldera rim. As the road rises steadily from Bangli or Tampaksiring, nothing in the gray landscape of surrounding bush and garden plantations announces the presence of a volcano, when suddenly, beyond a small ridge, the dizzying view is in front of the eyes, spanning across the crater and beyond. From Penelokan, the main road runs all along the rim to Kintamani, the panorama renewing itself constantly before the eyes.
The very dimension of the caldera points to the explosion of the mountain tens of thousands years ago. But the volcano is still active. The Balinese all over the island still keep the memory of the great eruption of 1917, which destroyed thousands of temples and made a thousand victims. Old people may tell you that they were born the “year when the world shook”, meaning 1917. Other eruptions occurred later, forcing the relocation of the population and of several of the temples, including one of the principal temples of Bali, the Pura Ulun Danu temple. The temple, initially located inside the huge crater, is now located on the ridge overlooking it. Its offers a grandiose view over Mount Batur. To get a complete range of the panorama, it is possible to drive half the length of the circumference of the ‘crater on its upper rim. The highest point is occupied by Bukit Penulisan, where is located one of the most ancient temples of Bali, with remains of carvings from the early Buddhist period. From Penulisan, the road continues to Buleleng and Kubutambahan.
An interesting excursion, though, it to climb down inside the crater from Penelokan to Kedisan. It is then possible to drive around the smaller Mount Batur through Songan and back. Toya Bungkah is where the boats leave to Trunyan, the Bali Aga village situated on the other side of the lake. The village is famous for its mortuary traditions: instead of cremating the dead, as Balinese do throughout most of the island, the Trunyan people let them rot away, in a special cemetery.
In Toya Bungkah there are hot springs and accommodations. From Songan there is a beautiful trek to Tianyar to the North coast of the island. It is also possible to trek up Mount Batur and Mount Abang.